The menu, as it stands.

Steamed in the pod, finished with flaky salt and a squeeze of yuzu. The bowl that keeps the table going while you decide.

Silken tofu, lightly fried, set in a hot dashi broth with grated daikon and ginger. House staple.

Vinegar-cured mackerel, the back fat scored, served with shiso and pickled myoga. From the morning's Tsukiji run.

Mashed and mayonnaised, with cucumber, carrot, ham, soft-boiled egg. Comfort food, served cold.

Two pieces. Thigh, charcoal-grilled with leek between each cube. Order it salt unless you've already got something sweet on the table.

Chicken meatball, soft-yolked egg dip on the side. Tare-glazed. Two skewers.

Fat shiitake caps, salted, charred to where the gills go crisp at the edge. Squeeze of lemon at the table.

Blistered, salted, mostly mild. About one in ten is hot - keeps the table honest.

Sea bream sashimi over warm rice, sesame, nori, wasabi. Hot dashi poured over at the table.

Stiff wheat noodles, dipping broth of pork bone and dried sardine. Big bowl - share it or skip the rest of the menu.

Cloudy, slightly sparkling, low alcohol. Poured cold from a stoneware jar. By the cup or carafe.

Suntory Toki, soda, a wedge of lemon if you ask. Served in a tall thin glass that's been in the freezer.

From a small Yamanashi maker. Light, juicy, deliberately unfussy. By the glass.

Set custard, properly bitter matcha on top, a spoon of azuki. The night's only sweet, and the chef's wife will know if you didn't finish it.